vízhullámok

Vízhullámok, often translated as water waves, are disturbances that travel through the surface of a body of water. These phenomena are caused by various factors, including wind, seismic activity, and the gravitational pull of celestial bodies like the Moon and Sun. The most common type of water wave is a wind wave, generated when wind exerts stress on the water's surface, transferring energy and creating ripples that can grow into larger waves.

The characteristics of water waves include their wavelength, the horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs, and their amplitude, the vertical distance from the undisturbed water level to the crest or trough. Wave height is twice the amplitude. The speed at which a wave travels is known as its celerity and is influenced by factors like water depth and wavelength. In deep water, wave speed is primarily dependent on wavelength, while in shallow water, it is more influenced by water depth.

As water waves approach the shore, they undergo a process called shoaling. The wave's speed decreases due to friction with the seabed, and its wavelength shortens. This causes the wave's energy to concentrate, leading to an increase in wave height and eventually breaking. The breaking of waves is a complex process involving the collapse of the wave crest.

Tsunamis are a specific type of large, often destructive, water wave generated by sudden displacements of large volumes of water, typically caused by underwater earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, or landslides. Unlike wind waves, tsunamis have very long wavelengths and travel across entire ocean basins at high speeds. Tidal waves, while sometimes referred to as such, are actually caused by the gravitational forces of the Moon and Sun, leading to predictable rises and falls in sea level.