snowpeg

A snowpeg is a type of temporary anchor used in mountaineering and ice climbing. It is typically a hollow metal tube, often made of aluminum or steel, that is driven into compacted snow or ice. The hollow interior of the snowpeg allows snow or ice to be packed into it, creating a more secure hold. The peg is then attached to a rope or other climbing gear via a hole or loop at one end.

Snowpegs are generally used in situations where other types of protection, such as rock protection or ice screws, are not suitable or available. They are most effective in firm, consolidated snow or in hard, clear ice. Their effectiveness can be significantly reduced in soft, powdery snow, or in brittle, fractured ice. The depth to which the snowpeg is driven into the snow or ice is crucial for its holding power.

When placing a snowpeg, climbers aim for the deepest possible penetration into the most stable snow or ice layer. After insertion, the snow or ice is often packed firmly around the peg to maximize its friction and anchoring strength. While useful, snowpegs are generally considered less reliable than ice screws or pitons. Their holding strength is highly dependent on the quality of the snow or ice and the skill of the climber in placing them. They are often used in conjunction with other anchors to create a more robust protection system.