pitonit

Pitonit are metal anchors used in rock climbing. They are hammered into cracks or seams in rock to create temporary protection for the rope in ascent. Pitonit come in several forms, including straight pitons, angled pitons, and tapered pitons, each designed to fit different crack shapes. They are installed with a hammer and removed after use, though some are left as fixed anchors on long routes.

Historically, pitonit were a dominant protection technology in traditional and alpinist climbing from the late 19th century through the mid-20th century. The development of removable protection such as nuts and camming devices, along with the rise of bolted routes, reduced their prevalence in most climbing styles. Nevertheless, pitonit remain in use for aid climbing and on routes where other protection cannot be placed.

Materials and care: Pitonit are typically made of steel or iron, sometimes alloyed for strength. They can deform or fail if hammered improperly, and they can damage rock surfaces. Climbers generally remove pitonit after use or leave fixed anchors on longer routes, following local ethics and environmental guidelines. In many climbing communities, excessive piton use is discouraged due to rock damage and route modification.

Etymology: The word piton comes from French piton meaning spike.