mirrorwork

Mirrorwork, or shisha embroidery, is a textile decorative technique in which small mirrors are sewn into fabric. The mirrors—often glass set in metal frames—reflect light to create bright, starry patterns. The name shisha comes from Persian for glass. Although widely associated with the Indian subcontinent, mirrorwork appears in various forms across Central and West Asia and the Middle East.

In practice, mirrors are placed on a cloth ground and secured with dense stitches. Edges are wrapped or stitched to prevent snagging. Common stitches include running, chain, and couching. Mirrors range from tiny droplets to larger tiles and are arranged in geometric or floral designs. The technique is often combined with other textile arts, such as bandhani or other embroidery on cotton, silk, or velvet.

Regional traditions are strongest in Gujarat (Kutch) and Rajasthan. In Kutch, hundreds of small mirrors create bold geometric motifs on shawls, skirts, and wall hangings; Rajasthan features larger mirrors within intricate borders. Mirrorwork is commonly used on wedding and festival garments and household textiles; it is thought to ward off evil by reflecting it away.

Today, mirrorwork has been adapted by designers worldwide for fashion and art. While the craft remains highly labor-intensive and mirrors can be fragile, it continues to be valued for luminosity, texture, and cultural heritage.