hullámmélyedési

Hullámmélyedés, also known as wave trough, is the lowest point of a wave. It is the area between two successive crests. The trough is characterized by its depth relative to the undisturbed water level, known as the still water level. The distance between a trough and the nearest crest is half the wavelength. The vertical distance from the still water level to the bottom of the trough is called the trough depth. Understanding wave troughs is crucial in various fields, including oceanography, naval architecture, and coastal engineering, as they play a significant role in wave dynamics, sediment transport, and the forces exerted on structures in water. The shape and depth of a wave trough can vary depending on factors such as wave height, wavelength, and the underlying water depth. In deep water, wave troughs are generally symmetrical to wave crests. However, in shallower waters, the shape can become distorted, with troughs often being flatter and crests sharper due to the interaction of the wave with the seabed. The study of wave troughs contributes to predicting wave behavior and its impact on marine environments and human activities.