emollience

Emollience is the property of a substance to soften and soothe the skin by increasing its pliability and restoring the lipids of the outer skin layer. In dermatology and cosmetics, emollients are used to improve texture, reduce roughness, and support barrier function. They often work by forming a lubricating film on the skin, filling spaces between desquamating cells, and reducing water loss from the surface.

Emollients can be classified by function. Occlusives create a barrier that slows transepidermal water loss and can be oil- or wax-based (for example, petrolatum and mineral oils). Lipid replacers are substances that help restore the skin’s lipid matrix, such as glycerides, ceramides, cholesterol, and certain esters. Humectants, including glycerin and urea, attract water to the stratum corneum but may be used in combination with occlusives to maintain hydration. Many products combine these actions in creams, ointments, lotions, or serums.

Common ingredients include petrolatum, mineral oil, lanolin, various esters (such as isopropyl myristate), fatty acids, ceramides, cholesterol, glycerin, propylene glycol, dimethicone, and other silicones. Natural oils and butters (for example, shea butter) are also used. Formulations vary in thickness and feel, with ointments being more occlusive and creams or lotions providing lighter lubrication and easier spread.

Indications include xerosis (dry skin), atopic dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis, and after dermatologic procedures. They are widely used in daily skincare and cosmetic products. Most are considered safe, though some individuals may have allergies or sensitivities to fragrances, preservatives, or lanolin; comedogenic potential varies by ingredient and skin type.

---