cordwainer

Cordwainer is a craftsman who makes footwear from new leather. Unlike a cobbler, who repairs or alters existing shoes, a cordwainer constructs shoes from scratch, shaping leather on lasts, sewing components, and applying finishes to create a complete pair.

Origin and guilds: The term has its roots in medieval Europe. In England, cordwainers were organized separately from cobblers in the City of London and formed the Worshipful Company of Cordwainers. The distinction between cordwainers and cobblers reflected differences between making new footwear (cordwainer) and repairing or assembling from salvaged materials (cobbler).

Techniques and scope: Cordwainers work with various leather types, from full-grain hides to exotic leathers. They may use stitching methods such as Goodyear or Blake welts, proper last shaping, cutting, skiving, lasting, and finishing, including sole attachment and edge burnishing. Modern cordwainers often specialize in bespoke or artisanal footwear, focusing on fit, durability, and detailed craftsmanship.

Modern usage: Today, cordwainer is often used to denote a skilled, traditional shoemaker who creates custom or high-quality shoes. In casual usage, the term may be synonymous with shoemaker, though many practitioners reserve cordwainer for craftspeople who work with new leather and custom patterns rather than repair. The distinction is most evident in historical contexts or among trade guilds.