bølgestrømmene

Bølgestrømmene, also known as wave currents, are a phenomenon that occurs in bodies of water, primarily oceans and large lakes, where the energy of wind-generated waves influences the movement of water. Unlike large-scale ocean currents driven by global atmospheric circulation or density differences, bølgestrømmene are more localized and directly linked to the presence and characteristics of waves.

These currents are generated when waves approach the shore and interact with the seabed. As waves move into shallower water, they begin to slow down and break. The breaking process redistributes momentum from the wave to the water column, creating a net flow of water in the direction of the waves. This onshore movement is often balanced by an offshore return flow, which can be seen as rip currents under certain conditions.

The strength and direction of bølgestrømmene are dependent on several factors, including wave height, period, and direction, as well as the bathymetry of the area. Steep beaches and large waves tend to produce stronger currents. Understanding these currents is important for coastal management, marine safety, and the study of sediment transport along coastlines. They play a significant role in shaping beaches and coastal features.