Ortles

Ortles, or Ortler in German, is the highest mountain in the South Tyrol and in the Ortler Alps, rising 3,905 metres above sea level. It sits on the border between the autonomous province of South Tyrol and Lombardy in northern Italy and is the region’s apex. The peak lies within Stelvio National Park, one of Italy’s largest protected areas, and the surrounding terrain includes extensive glaciation on its northern slopes.

Geography and geology: The Ortler is the apex of the Ortler Alps, a subrange of the Central Eastern Alps. The mountain consists of high-alpine rocks typical of the region, with permanent snow and ice supporting steep ridges and large rock faces. Its high altitude creates dramatic summit views and a rugged, glaciated profile.

Climbing and routes: The Ortles has long been a mountaineering objective. Multiple routes ascend the peak, ranging from glacier journeys to more technical rock and ice routes. The standard route approaches from the south via the Ortler Glacier and is considered suitable for experienced climbers with proper gear. There are also more challenging options on the north and east faces for advanced climbers.

History and significance: The summit has featured in Alpine exploration since the 19th century, with early ascents carried out by local guides and Austrian climbers. Today, Ortles is recognized as a major Alpine icon and a symbol of the rugged alpine landscape of South Tyrol. Like many Alpine glaciers, the ice on and around Ortles has retreated in recent decades due to climate change, affecting routes and local ecosystems.