orris

Orris refers to the dried rhizomes of several iris species, most notably Iris germanica, Iris pallida, and Iris florentina. It has long been valued in perfumery for its soft, violet, powdery aroma and for its ability to act as a fixative, helping other fragrance ingredients last longer on the skin.

Preparation and aging: The rhizomes are harvested, cleaned, and dried, sometimes steamed. They are then aged for two to three years or longer to develop a refined aroma. After aging, the rhizomes are ground into orris powder for direct use, or subjected to solvent extraction to produce orris concrete or orris absolute. Steam distillation can yield orris oil, but this is scarce and costly.

Uses: In perfumery, orris is prized as a base-note fixative and for its characteristic violet-tinged, powdery scent that blends well with floral and woody accords. It is commonly incorporated into perfumes to extend scent longevity and to impart a refined, elegant facet. Orris derivatives also appear in soaps and cosmetics. Historically, orris has appeared in some traditional flavorings and liqueurs, though its use in ingestion is limited and regulated.

Composition and safety: The scent arises from irone and other iridoid compounds, along with waxy constituents from the root. Orris is generally used in small quantities; as with many fragrance ingredients, sensitive individuals may experience skin irritation, so products should be used as directed.