mouwkop

Mouwkop is a term used in Dutch garment construction that refers to the uppermost, curved portion of a sleeve, commonly called the sleeve cap in English. This area forms the transition between the sleeve and the armhole and is cut and shaped to fit the shoulder curve.

The function of the mouwkop is to provide the necessary ease and fullness at the sleeve head so the sleeve can hinge smoothly at the shoulder while allowing movement. The height and curvature of the sleeve cap influence how the sleeve sits and moves; a higher cap adds more fullness at the shoulder, while a lower cap yields a closer fit. In pattern making, the mouwkop is drafted from the armhole circumference with appropriate ease, and then eased or gathered to fit the armhole during assembly.

Construction and handling of the mouwkop vary with fabric and style. On woven fabrics, the sleeve cap is often eased into the armhole to distribute fullness evenly. On stretch fabrics, the cap may be reduced to suit the fabric’s shape and recovery. The design of the mouwkop also reflects garment style: tailored garments tend to feature a more defined, sometimes taller cap, while loose or puff sleeves use a larger cap to create volume at the shoulder.

In Dutch usage, mouwkop is primarily a sewing and patternmaking term; outside of textile contexts, the word is rarely used. See also sleeve cap, armhole, and set-in sleeve for related concepts.