farthingale
The farthingale is a stiffened hoop skirt used to extend the width of a woman's skirt and create a wider, more voluminous silhouette. It was popular in Europe from the mid-16th century to the early 17th century. There were two primary types of farthingales. The Spanish farthingale, also known as the wheel farthingale, was cone-shaped and worn from the waist, creating a flat front and a rounded, widened side profile. This style was prevalent in the earlier period. Later in the 16th century, the French farthingale, or drum farthingale, emerged. This version was more circular and flatter, resembling a drum, and was also worn from the waist. The construction of farthingales varied, often involving layers of fabric stuffed with materials like horsehair or bran, or utilizing a framework of whalebone, cane, or metal hoops sewn into a petticoat. The farthingale was a significant fashion item for aristocratic and wealthy women, influencing the silhouette seen in portraits and courtly attire of the era. Its popularity waned by the early 17th century, replaced by other styles that emphasized a narrower, more elongated figure.