Kraaglijnen

Kraaglijnen are the lines that define where a garment’s collar begins and ends along the neckline. In Dutch fashion terminology, the term refers to the edge or seam lines related to collars as used in patternmaking and garment construction.

In pattern making, the kraaglijn is drawn on a bodice or neckline to indicate where the collar piece will attach and where the collar should sit. It helps ensure a proper fit around the neck and the correct presence and fall of the collar.

The shape of the kraaglijn varies with collar style. A classic shirt collar follows a curved neckline line, a stand collar uses a shorter, more upright line, and a mandarin collar renders a minimal line close to the neck. The line influences drape, silhouette, and how the collar relates to the shoulder and chest.

Construction and alterations: when cutting fabric, the collar pieces are aligned to the kraaglijn and seam allowances are added according to the pattern. Alterations to the kraaglijn can adjust neck openness, collar height, or overall fit, and may change how the collar sits when worn.

In practice, kraaglijnen are a fundamental element in pattern drafting and fashion design, connecting the neckline to the collar and shaping the final appearance of the garment.