ISOrettede

ISOrettede is a term used in textile technology to describe a proposed international framework for standardizing the retting stage in bast-fiber production. The name blends ISO-style standardization with retted fibers, the process by which plant stalks are loosened to release fibers such as flax, jute, and hemp. In this article, ISOrettede refers to the framework as a whole rather than a single specification.

Origin and development: Introduced by an interdisciplinary consortium of researchers, mills, and suppliers in the mid-2010s, ISOrettede aims to harmonize retting methods, improve fiber quality, and reduce environmental impact. It is not an official ISO standard but a set of guidelines and data practices intended to enable interoperability across regions. Pilot projects have tested its concepts in Europe and parts of Asia.

Scope and principles: The framework outlines performance metrics for retted fibers—fineness, tenacity, elongation, and length distribution—along with environmental indicators such as water use and effluent quality. It specifies process parameters including retting duration, temperature, pH, and the use of microbial or enzymatic agents. It differentiates categories of retting: dew, water, and enzyme-assisted.

Practical impact: Where adopted, ISOrettede guides documentation, sampling, and testing with standardized data templates to support supply-chain traceability and sustainability reporting across growers, processors, and manufacturers.

Status and critique: The framework remains advisory rather than mandatory and depends on governance, cost considerations, and consensus among industry stakeholders. Proponents see it as a path to transparency and environmental improvements; critics warn that formal adoption requires buy-in from many parties and alignment with national regulations.