rubover

Rubover is a traditional gemstone setting technique in which a metal collar, or bezel, is formed around the edge of a gemstone and folded over its girdle to hold the stone in place. The setting wraps around the stone, with the inner edge lying against the stone and the outer edge rising to form the surrounding rim. The metal is then burnished or pressed to secure the edge without relying on prongs.

Rubover settings are commonly used for rings and pendants and can be made in a variety of metals, including gold, white gold, platinum, and silver. They suit diamonds and many colored gemstones and provide a smooth, low-profile finish that protects the girdle from impact. The technique is valued for its clean appearance and secure hold, especially for stones requiring protection from chipping along the girdle.

Advantages of rubover include excellent protection of the gemstone girdle, a secure hold, and a minimalist aesthetic that emphasizes the stone. Disadvantages can include more complex sizing and potential difficulty in resizing, as well as the need for precise workmanship to ensure the bezel is true and does not obscure facets or tilt the stone.

In practice, rubover is one of several bezel-style settings and is related to but distinct from the traditional bezel setting by its method of folding the metal over the edge to grip the stone. It is commonly contrasted with prong, channel, or gypsy settings, which secure a stone in different ways.