gemcutter

Gemcutter, also known as a lapidary or facet cutter, is a craftsman who shapes and polishes gemstones to enhance their optical properties. Working from rough material, a gemcutter plans the cut to balance weight, symmetry, and color, aiming to maximize brilliance and clarity. The field includes diamonds and colored stones, with techniques tuned to each material.

The process begins with evaluating the rough to determine the best orientation and cut plan. The stone may be cleaved or sawed to workable blanks, then ground and faceted in stages. For diamonds and many gems, the cut involves a table, crown facets, and pavilion facets before final polishing. For cabochons, the emphasis is on shaping and smoothing surfaces rather than facets. Throughout, the cutter assesses inclusions and optical symmetry to guide decisions.

Tools include diamond-tipped saws, faceting machines or hand lathes, diamond laps, and polishing compounds. The stone is mounted on a dop stick for precise orientation, and magnification aids inspection.

Historically, gemstone cutting is an ancient craft that evolved into modern faceting in the 19th and 20th centuries. Pioneers such as Marcel Tolkowsky contributed theoretical models that helped standardize ideal cuts for diamonds. Today gemcutters work in jewelry studios, mining operations, or independent workshops, often collaborating with designers and graders. Training usually involves apprenticeship, hands-on practice, and a grounding in gemology.

Quality in gem cutting is judged by cut, symmetry, polish, and weight retention. Diamond cuts are graded by laboratories (e.g., ideal or excellent) and certified, while colored stones rely on precise proportions and finish to maximize brilliance and value.