Wellenausrichtung

Wellenausrichtung is a term used in the field of oceanography and meteorology to describe the direction in which ocean waves or wind waves are moving. It is typically measured in degrees relative to a fixed reference point, such as true north. The direction of wave propagation is perpendicular to the wave crests, meaning that if waves are moving towards the east, their crests will run north-south.

The alignment of waves can significantly impact coastal processes, including erosion, sediment transport, and the formation of coastal features like beaches and sandbars. Understanding wave direction is crucial for coastal management, navigation, and the design of coastal structures such as breakwaters and seawalls.

Wave direction can be influenced by various factors, including wind direction, the shape of the coastline, and the presence of obstacles such as islands or reefs. In open ocean conditions, wave direction is primarily determined by the prevailing wind direction. However, as waves approach the shore, they can be refracted (bent) by the changing depth of the water, leading to a change in wave direction.

In addition to its practical applications, wave direction is also a key parameter in the study of wave dynamics and the behavior of ocean currents. It plays a role in the formation of wave patterns, such as swell and sea, and can affect the behavior of marine organisms that rely on wave motion for their survival.