Teintures

Teintures, or dyes, are substances used to impart color to materials such as textiles, leather, paper, and cosmetics. Unlike pigments, which are insoluble and color surfaces, many dyes dissolve in water and form bonds with fibers through chemical affinity or adsorption. The quality of a teinture is judged by coloristic properties and fastness to light, washing, and rubbing.

Teintures are broadly categorized as natural or synthetic. Natural dyes derive from plants, insects, or minerals—indigo (blue), madder (red), cochineal (scarlet). Synthetic dyes, developed from the mid-19th century onward, include reactive, vat, disperse, and acid dyes, covering a wide range of substrates and fastnesses. Different fibers require different classes: cellulose fibers (cotton, viscose) are typically dyed with reactive or direct dyes; protein fibers (wool, silk) with acid dyes; nylon with acid or disperse; polyester with disperse.

Fixation and mordants: Many natural dyes require mordants, such as alum or iron, to improve adhesion and color fastness by forming dye-metal complexes with the fiber. Wasing and lightfastness depend on dye chemistry and mordants.

History and industry: The discovery of mauveine by William Perkin in 1856 marked the birth of the synthetic dye industry, dramatically lowering costs and expanding color palettes. Environmental and health considerations: Dyeing liquids can contain hazardous substances; effluents are subject to treatment standards. Sustainable practices include faster dyeing cycles, water recycling, and the use of non-toxic dyes.

Applications extend beyond textiles to leather, paper, cosmetics, and food coloring in regulated contexts.