Lhotse

Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world, standing at 8,516 meters (27,940 feet). It is located in the eastern Himalayas on the border between Nepal and the Tibet Autonomous Region of China, and forms part of the Mahalangur massif near Mount Everest. The peak is connected to Everest by the South Col, and it features a secondary summit known as Lhotse Shar, at 8,383 meters.

The name Lhotse comes from Tibetan for “South Peak.” The mountain straddles Nepal’s Sagarmatha National Park on the southern side, with the northern part lying in the Tibetan region. The Lhotse Massif is closely linked to the Everest massif, sharing routes and logistical support in the Khumbu region.

Climbing information: The standard ascent is via the Lhotse Face from the Everest region, using the South Col and Southeast Ridge to reach the main summit. The first ascent occurred on May 18, 1956, by Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss of a Swiss expedition. The ascent remains technically demanding, with steep ice and rock, variable weather, and objective hazards such as avalanches and crevasses. Spring is the most common climbing season.

Access and protection: In Nepal, Lhotse lies within Sagarmatha National Park and climbers require appropriate permits and registration; on the Tibetan side, jurisdiction and access are governed by local authorities. The mountain is regarded as one of the most challenging 8,000-meter peaks and is a major objective for experienced high-altitude climbers.