Exfoliants

Exfoliants are substances or devices designed to remove dead skin cells from the outermost layer of the epidermis. They are used to improve skin texture, radiance, and product penetration, and can help with conditions such as acne and hyperpigmentation.

Exfoliants are commonly categorized as physical (mechanical), chemical, and enzymatic. Physical exfoliants rely on scrubbing or abrasion with granules (such as sugar, salt, or ground seeds) or tools (brushes, sponges). Improper use can irritate the skin or cause microtears. Chemical exfoliants include alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs, such as glycolic and lactic), beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs, notably salicylic acid), and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs, such as gluconolactone). They work by loosening intercellular connections or dissolving surface keratin. Enzymatic exfoliants use proteolytic enzymes from fruits (for example papain from papaya or bromelain from pineapple) to soften keratin.

Frequency and strength should be tailored to the individual’s skin type and tolerance. Over-exfoliation can compromise the skin barrier, causing redness, sensitivity, and breakouts. Caution is advised for those with active dermatitis, eczema, rosacea, or when using other irritants or retinoids. Patch testing is recommended, and sun protection is important, especially with AHA/BHA use.

Environmental considerations have led to declines in plastic microbeads, with a shift toward biodegradable exfoliant options.