brændinger
Brændinger, also known as breakers or surf, are waves that have become too steep to support themselves and collapse, or break, as they approach the shore. This process occurs when the wave's base encounters the shallowing seabed, causing friction that slows the bottom of the wave while the top continues to move forward at a faster speed. This differential speed causes the wave to steepen.
As a wave enters water shallower than about half its wavelength, the seabed begins to affect its
The point where a wave breaks is called the break point. Beyond this point, the turbulent water