brændinger

Brændinger, also known as breakers or surf, are waves that have become too steep to support themselves and collapse, or break, as they approach the shore. This process occurs when the wave's base encounters the shallowing seabed, causing friction that slows the bottom of the wave while the top continues to move forward at a faster speed. This differential speed causes the wave to steepen.

As a wave enters water shallower than about half its wavelength, the seabed begins to affect its form. The wave's energy, which was previously propagating in all directions, becomes concentrated into a smaller volume of water. Eventually, the crest of the wave outruns the trough, leading to instability and the characteristic tumbling motion of a breaking wave. The height at which a wave breaks depends on factors such as the wave's steepness, the slope of the beach, and the presence of currents.

The point where a wave breaks is called the break point. Beyond this point, the turbulent water that results from the breaking wave is called white water or foam. The formation of brændinger is a fundamental process in coastal geomorphology, influencing sediment transport and the shaping of shorelines. They are also a key feature for recreational activities like surfing.