mandelic

Mandelic is an adjective related to mandelic acid or its derivatives. Mandelic acid is an aromatic alpha-hydroxy acid historically derived from bitter almonds and is widely used in cosmetic science and organic synthesis. The term mandelic appears in the names of compounds that contain the mandelic acid moiety or its enantiomers.

Chemically, mandelic acid is optically active, with two enantiomers: D- and L-mandelic acid. Its formula is C8H8O3, and it features a phenyl group attached to the alpha carbon of a carboxylic acid, giving it a larger molecular size than some other AHAs. This structural characteristic contributes to slower skin penetration and a potentially gentler profile for exfoliation.

Production and sources can vary. Mandelic acid can be synthesized through hydrolysis of mandelonitrile or oxidation of mandelamide, and it can also be produced by fermentation or extraction from natural sources. In practice, mandelic acid is manufactured for pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and research applications.

Applications are most prominent in dermatology and skincare. In cosmetic peels and topical formulations, mandelic acid acts as a keratolytic and exfoliant, helping to loosen corneocytes and promote cell turnover. Its slower penetration can make it better tolerated on sensitive or darker skin types compared to smaller AHAs such as glycolic acid. Mandelic acid also exhibits antimicrobial activity and is used in formulations aimed at acne and hyperpigmentation, though results depend on concentration and formulation. Safety considerations include the potential for irritation and increased sun sensitivity, so products are usually used with sun protection and patch testing.