bølgebrytning
Bølgebrytning is a Danish term that translates to "wave breaking" in English. It refers to the phenomenon where ocean waves, as they approach the shore, increase in height and steepness until their crest overtakes their base, causing them to collapse and dissipate their energy. This process is a fundamental aspect of coastal geomorphology and wave dynamics.
The primary factors influencing bølgebrytning are water depth and wave characteristics. As waves travel from deeper
When the wave's steepness, the ratio of its height to its length, exceeds a critical limit, typically